Two wet in Trieste!

Having made our way to the very beautiful city of Trieste and finding a campsite at the top of a very high hill (maybe even qualifies as a mini mountain), we managed to get set up and settled in within ten minutes. The campsite is set in what we would call a National Trust Park and is full of creatures that we have never seen before. they have bugs, probably some kind of Locust that ar 5cm long, we have seen grass hoppers, heard Wood Peckers and many other bird songs that we are unable to identify, we should have brough Patrick with us. It really is a place of outstanding beauty and very unspoilt. We were picking plums from a tree last night that were the sweetest we had ever tasted. Later that evening we had a lovely stroll along the road to the next village called Opicina and stayed long enough to get a bit tipsy in a very lively pub. It was absolutely full of people and the village could not have been as big as East Ord. We walked back and fell into bed and off to sleep immediately after making our plans to get the bus to Slovenia in the morning because it is just 4 kilometres along the road and then the rest of the day exploring Trieste, day sorted.

About 8.00am we woke up and thought we heard a spot of rain on the roof of the tent. Oh boy were we in for a shock. The rain turned into a full blown thunder and lightning storm that lasted 6 hours It crashed, banged and flashed all around us. Jean was very brave and Sheila was under the covers with her iPod turned up full blast so that she couldn't hear it.

As it eased off we ventured out for a cup of coffee and a croissant and as it seemed to be drying up a bit we headed off into Trieste in the hope that we could get a little bit of sight seeing done. We managed about 2hours before the heavens opened again and we thought we were going to have another Naples soaking. This time though we found a doorway to shelter in and then found this internet cafe and thought we would just update you on our comings and goings. Here is a picture of Trieste at its driest today, you can see the storm clouds brewing.

This Piazza del'Unita d'Italia which is one of the biggest and most spectacular squares opening onto the sea. we also came across James Joyce who was very prominent at the railway station but there is also a bronze statue of him by the Grand Canal which is really a puddle in comparison with the Grand Canal in Venice. Can anyone tell us what his connection is with Trieste. We have also attached a photo of the Roman Theatre which dates back to 1AD and the photograph doesn't really do it justice. As well as some amazing architecture there are some fabulous shops and if you are reading this Anne, you definitely need to accompany Simon on one of his trips here and make sure he brings his credit card. It is very affluent and more chic than any of the cities we have visited so far. There seems to be quite a Jewish influence and they are so posh that there are no knock off bags and belts here, they probably just wouldn't want fakes.

The thunder seems to be easing off although the rain continues to come down in sheets. We have checked the weather forecast and apparently the worst is to come through the night so when you wake up in the morning, think of us packing our very wet tent away in the pouring rain to catch an early morning train to Verona, let's hope the sun is shining and we can get dried off on the train.

We are going to head off now up our little mountain. Thank goodness we don't actually have to climb the dam thing, we have a lovely tram to do that for us and even in weather like this the views are to die for. The tram was built in 1902 and I am sure the people at the top of the hill were very grateful for it, I know we are.

We will try to tell you about Verona and Juliet's balcony tomorrow or Saturday.

Love to read some comments from you guys, especially if anyone knows about James Joyce.

Loads of love

Jean & Sheila

Napoli socks or die

We have managed to find an internet cafe so are just going for it while we can as we want to tell you how dedicated two women can be to finding Napoli football socks.

We had a few hours to spend before catching our flight to Venice and so decided that we would once again try to find some Napoli football socks for Kieran. Well that turned out to be a bit of a challenge. No where, and I mean no where, can you buy Napoli football socks in Naples in fact we have been looking today in Venice and you can't get them here either. Anyway, we got off the bus at the station, dumped our bags and started the quest. Honestly, you would think we were looking for the Holy Grail, never has anything been so hard to find. We were in the dodgy end of town anyway and trying to cross roads was like taking your life in your hands literally on one occasion as a biker tried to mow down Sheila, who managed to swerve out of his way because he didn't seem to know what to do. All this took place on a zebra crossing and never ones to miss an opportunity, a cafe owner immediately said we should go into his cafe and buy ourselves a coffee to get over the shock. We were both fine and continued our quest with bags clutched tightly to our chests because that's what everyone has told us to do while in Naples.

Sorry Kieran, the quest was unfulfilled but we did manage to get you something but we will keep it a surprise.

We got to the airport only to find that the flight was delayed and so we did a little window shopping and of course managed to buy a couple of bits at the duty free. Safely stuffing our purses back into our bags off we went to check in. On the aeroplane Sheila got out her glasses and ipod and enjoyed watching a movie during the 40 minute flight.

Finding the bus to the campsite was so easy, finding the campsite was a doddle, and before you knew it, the tent was up (less than 5 minutes) and off we went for some food because by this time it was about 10.30pm and we were starving. We ordered a pizza and Sheila went into her bag for her purse and guess what, it was gone. We had spent all that time in Naples protecting our pennies only to get to Venice and be caught out by a pick pocket. Mother, please don't worry, it's all sorted, card stopped and report made to police. That was the end of our very eventful day and we both went off to bed feeling that we had made a bad choice coming to Venice. The campsite was too far our and the buses started to late for us to make our train on Wednesday morning so that night we thought we would just pack up the next day and head into town to see if we could sort something else out. We literally just turned the corner from the train station when Jean noticed a sign for a friendly cheap hotel so we thought why not let's give it a shot. We have been delighted by our cheap hotel. It's clean, 2 minutes from the station and is indeed cheap so we are very happy.

We have also decided not to go to Slovenia tomorrow and instead we will find a campsite in Trieste and stay there for a couple of days instead as we feel we could just do with charging our batteries.

Today we have walked ten miles around Venice and we definitely did not make a mistake coming here as it has been one of the most beautiful cities we have ever been to. We think the rest of the world has come with us though as you just can't move for pesky tourists. Here is a couple of photos to make you all feel jealous.

As you can see mum, we are once again having a great time and loving every minute.

We have to go now as we have to be up at 6am to catch our train. We don't know when we can blog again but we will as soon as we can.

Love to all.

Jean and Sheila

Naples

Hello again,

We wanted to go into Naples to see the Capodimonte Museum and then onto Pompei. We had our journey planned down to the last bus and thought that we would be able to fit both in with time to return to the camp site for a swim in the volcanically heated swimming pool. Oh how things can go wrong. It started of so well because we managed to catch the right but, unfortunately we were not so sure about where to get off so once we got to the port we thought we had gone far enough and got off to look for the next bus up to the Museum. Well, to find the bus we had to pass through a market which held us up a little as Sheila decided that there were a few nice bits and pieces that took her fancy and she ended up buying two dresses and one top for €3 (vintage you know). Off we went again to get our bus and of course we managed to get on the right bus but didn't quite know where to get off. Everyone wanted to help us: it's 9 stops said one old man, you should get off at the next stop said a young girl, I'll tell you when to get off said the bus driver, he was the one we listened to and for a good job because it we had taken the advice of any of the others we would still be walking up the hill now. Well, we know how the best laid plans go wrong, instead of a couple of hours in the museum we managed about five hours and I have to say, if it is possible, we're all Caravagio'd out. Again we have been blown away by art. This time it was the turn of Caravagio with a smattering of Raffaello and El Grecco amongst others but also the ceramics and the furniture were gorgeous.

We left the museum satiated of art and headed back down to the city centre, having realised that we would be unable to make Pompei before the museum closed. The buses are famous for being a little unreliable and after waiting over an hour for our bus back we thought it might be quicker to try the bus station in the hope of having more choice. We got about 200 metres along the road when the biggest thunder and lightning storm started and the heavens not only opened but actually gave way to a torrent of rain that neither Jean or I have ever seen. There we were in a park standing with a bit of cardboard over our heads watching everyone else scatter for the shelter they knew, getting soaked to the skin. The water was running down the street like a river and dripping of the end of our noses like a waterfall. We were both great candidates for the next Mrs wet T shirt competition and starting to feel just a little cold and soggy.

As we were more wet that we could ever be again, we decided to walk to the nearest bus stop, doorway, shelter, anything that might give us some shelter from the storm. We stumbled across a cafe with a canopy and asked if we could sit outside and shelter, the owner invited us in but we were dripping wet and just couldn't. The next thing we knew, they had brought us two coffees with smiley faces on them and two lovely little hot brioche buns. We were so grateful for something to keep us warm and the smiley faces really cheered us up. After the rain had stopped the owner offered us the use of his bathroom to get changed into (remember the two "vintage" dresses). Once we had dried ourselves down with paper towels and got changed we walked out of the toilets and you would think a couple of film stars had just walked into their cafe. They were cheering and smiling and giving us air kisses, it was fabulous and certainly cheered us up. Please don't let anyone tell you not to go to Naples, it has the friendliest most helpful people we have ever come across.

We had read in our guide book that the bus service was a bit unreliable and we found that to be the case. Remember we had already waited ages for our 152 and it never came. Well we crossed the road and waited at another bus stop forever... However, once again somebody came to our aid. Another lady who was also waiting for the bus told us how to get to the metro from the bus and we finally managed to start our 1K walk up the hill. Just outside the campsite we noticed a flame grilled chicken bar and thought that the very least we deserved was a proper meal so we bought the most magnificent portion of chicken and roast pototoes with rosemary. KFC eat your heart out, it was better than finger licking good.

Napoli we love you

Hello everyone

We just want you to know that we have had a delighful train journey from Rome to Naples. I think what was most pleasing was the sight of so many little olive groves and orchards and although I am sure that Italy is full of huge commercial farms as is everywhere, on our train journey their was lots of husband and wife teams working their own little small holding, weeding in between the melons and picking the fruit for the market.

The train was very busy with Romans travelling to the Amalfi coast for their holiday and the only reason that most of them were heading to Naples was so that they could catch the ferry to the islands especially Capri.

We managed to find the campsite okay, it is only 5km from Naples and a straight ride on the metro although the last km we had to walk up a hill in 32 degrees which was a bit of challenge but after all the steps we climbed in Rome we were well up for it. This is our home for the next few days.

The campsite is fantastic, we are right beside a volcanic crater which we worked around the first day and we were fasinated by the steam coming from various holes in the ground. The steam comes out at 160 degrees so you have to be careful were you stand and it also releases clouds of sulphur and so we came home covered in ash and stinking of rotten eggs. The mossies loved it and instantly attacked us leaving us looking like a bad case of giant measles. however other areas of our skin feel lovely and smooth and silky, it's just a shame that there is nobody here to appreciate it. After our trip around the crater which is right beside the campsite, we needed a shower and then went straight to the bar for well derserved beer before buying our tea.

Here is a picture of the view from the end of the road, we are overlooking the islands and it is one of the most beautiful views we have ever seen.

Last night we invented a great tea, we had bacon with courgettes accompanied by noodles cooked in chicken and leek cup-a-soup, with a few fresh plum tomatoes thrown in and a couple of huge crusy rolls to mop up the sauce. It was absolutely delicious. Just to add a bit of culture to our food for the day, when we got to the bar, we decided to have a bowl of mixed olives to accompany our wine, bellismo......

Farewell to Rome - Hello Naples

Hi everyone,


This is just a quickie today as we are up with the larks to catch the train to Naples ("hurrah, no walking today") said the feet.





Yesterday we finally made it to St Peters and climbed the 320 stairs to the top of the dome which was not as bad as I remembered although we both had a wee case of jelly legs once we got there, however, it only took a few minutes to catch our breath and then it was completely taken away again by the views of the city. After the Vittoro Emanuele the day before you would think that we would have had enough of viewing the city rooftops but this was every bit as wonderful. The dome is over at the other side of the city and from the top you can get wonderful views of the Pope's garden, St Peters Square and the surrounding hills. Again our cameras were smoking as we clicked away and still we can't download photos for you to see. I think the problem here is not with us but with the ancient computer that is available. We are not complaining though as access if free and the photos are worth waiting for. After a short spell sunbathing on the Pope's roof, we walked down the 520 steps which didn't seem to take as long as going up 320.



Once we got back down to earth we made our way into St Peters and were completely blown away. I had visited this last year but this was the first time that Jean had seen it and she could hardly speak, she was so overcome with the wonder of it all. We both managed to get some lovely photographs of the alter and St Peters tomb. We were so engrossed that before we new it we had spend about 5 hours wondering around.



A light lunch and a quick rest (feet demanded it, said they wouldn't walk another step without tomato sandwiches and five minutes toe wiggling) we set off again to see some churches but first we wanted to make sure that we knew where to catch the bus to the train station this morning and by the time we had checked this out, we missed the churches, so instead we had a nice little meander round the city. We stopped for a slice of pizza which was the best pizza we had ever tasted and we were ready for it after our energetic day, although we have been informed that actually Naples is the birth place of the pizza and we will get the best there - we shall let you know our verdict. Further along the road we were lured into a patisserie by these two little pieces of tart which really were robbers in disguise as they cost us €7 but they were so delicious, little slices of pistachio flavoured custard tarts and the pastry just melted in the mouth.



Anyway, as I said we are up early as we are heading to Naples this morning for the start of a week of camping so we don't know when we will be able to update again but hopefully we will find an internet cafe somewhere along the line.



Much love to everyone.



Jean and Sheila

All roads lead to Rome - and we walked them!

He everyone, our second day in Rome has been great. We started the day off by planning our route so that we didn't waste time once we were out. With feet newly washed and lovingly lotioned (they have been crying abuse at us), we set off for a number 271 bus to Il Vittoriano, a huge white marble monument built in honour of King Vittorio Emanuele 11, the first king of Italy. Apparently it had lain in ruins for a number of years (surprise, surprise) when at the beginning of the 20th century the Italians restored it to its former glory. It is the burial ground of the unknown soldier and a sort of museum for war and military memoribilia including several artifacts belonging to General Garibaldi. While we were there we also went up in the panoramic lift so that we could enjoy the 360 degree view of the city which is utterly wonderful. From the top you have very clear views of the Colosseum and Palatine which we believe was the Mayfair of Ancient Rome where the Roman celebrities hung out. Just a bit to our right was the Roman Forum where once stood the marble law courts of ancient Rome. Legend has it that Romulus' tomb is in there and that the Vestel Virgins tended the sacred flame of Temple di Vesta. When we face the other way we have the most amazing view of the roof tops of Rome including the domes of all the city churches. The cameras were smoking by the time we had finished up there and we do hope that we can get some pictures posted here before long (trust me, they are worth waiting for). I know a few of you have been to Rome but for anyone still to come, this really is the best place to see it all. We had to stop at the cafe up there and have a quick beer just because we needed to have a seat for a few minutes and we were lured in by the prospect of sitting beside one of those fans that sprays you with a fine mist of water as well as blowing a nice breeze on your face. The beer was €5 a glass so we felt justified in savouring it for a good half an hour before setting of on our next stop.



On our way to St Peters, we planned to visit the Pantheon which was built by Hadrian aroun about AD 120, pretty much about the same age as Hadrian's wall but in much better condition. First of all even though they have the odd earthquake and a smattering of wars, the building looks like it could have been built just a few hundred years ago. This temple come church hosts mass and it is probably for this reason that it doesn't cost to visit. The original doors are still in place but then they are made of bronze and are quite spectacular. However, as you go through the door the site of the dome just takes your breath away. This 9m oculus allows enough light through to light up the whole place and it would seem that everyone, including me, wanted to get a photograph of that shaft of light hitting the detailed architecture. Hadrian was a very clever man because the floor of the Pantheon is concave so that when it rains the water runs to the edges and drain away. Apparently it is quite a vision when the rain falls through the dome especially if it is one of those sun showers.



Piaazza Navona was not on our hit list but we kind of fell into it on our way to St Peter's and we are pleased that we did. This is Rome's most iconic piazza with three fountains including the fountain of the four rivers (the Nile, Ganges, Danube and Plata). Once upon a time they used to flood the piazza so that the Romans could enjoy somewhere to swim or at least paddle during the long hot summers. The tourist obviously still like that idea as the main fountain was cooling a few holidaymakers down. We both decided that our feet deserved a wee treat so we had our own little paddle there.



By this time we realised that we had our own little fan club, we have become the tastiest thing in Rome since they drove the cattle of the streets. We have acquired quite a few bites and believe me in Rome the mossies know how to sink their teeth in. Despite our daily dousing with Jungle formula insect repellent our little friends are just going for it. Every morning, before we set out, we get out the spray and believe me we are not mean with it, if we don't die of chemical poisoning before this trip is over it will be a surprise, and still they help themselves to their pound of flesh. Just as well mum gave use some more chemicals that take the itch out of the bites.

Anyway, we thought we might go to the supermarket and buy our tea so that we could save money. By the time we bought our tea it was too late to go to St Peters so instead we went back to the hostel had our tea and headed out again to the Spanish Steps and the Trivi Fountain. The Spanish Steps were as busy as ever and it was so funny watching the rogue traders trying to sell their fake Prada bags (only €15, very tempting) and keep one step ahead of the police. We couldn't find that lovely Ice Cream shop on our way to the Trivi so managed to save a few calories and euros there. We got some fabulous shots of the fountain (you really are going to be so bored with our holiday snaps) even though it was crowded. We feel very privilaged to be able to see all these wonderful sites and everywhere we go we manage to have a natter to someone. Last night it was an Australian who had just flown in from Venice, a really lovely girl and we had a bit of a laugh watching these crazy guys picking up their bags in sheets and running down the other side of the steps to the police coming up them.

Our feet are now demanding to be put on the next flight home. We have covered 35 miles on our site seeing trips and that's not including walking to buses and hostels etc. Yesterday we covered 10 miles around Rome, most of which were steps, and guess what, we are just on our way out the door to climb to the top of St Peters dome which, I believe, is another 300 and odd steps all in one go, no turning back and no stopping for a rest. Will probably spend a good bit of time sunbathing on the Pope's roof before we head back down. Feet will probably go on stike after today.

Speak to you all soon, love you all

Jean and Sheila

Dubrovnik Day 3

Day 3 in Dubrovnik started out as one of the hottest so far and we were dripping from the moment we woke up. (nice I know).

We had decided that today we would visit the museum of modern art to see the Alberto Glacometti exhibition, what a wonderful exhibition it was. Alberto is a sculptor but the exhibition was mostly his sketches which numbered about fifty five and these really displayed how his styles changed and then changed back to the way he first started. There were also photographs of him, some of which were taken while he was working and apparently if he wasn't wearing a tie, he was really stuggling with the piece that he was working on. He talked about how he struggled with faces at times although he mainly used two models, his wife and his brother. His small figure was the centre piece of the exhibition and it was so beautiful I can hardly find the right words to describe something that is so minimilist but so effective.

It was really too hot to do much more that day so we went to the market and bought some stuff for sandwiches and a picnic at the beach (rocks) and then off to the seaside. Both jean and I went into the water for a swim because it is the only was you can really get cool in such a heat. We had a fabulous time. Had a couple of beers again only this time they had run out of the Stella and the Next beer so we got Leiffe beer which is so expensive that we actully had to go back later and pay for them because we didn't take enough with us.

Later that night we just wandered about the town haveing a last look around for the odd souvenier and I bought a little painting by Pavica Pirc who paints the fish pictures that are all over Dubrovnik. My little original is tiny my excuse the the lady being that as we were back packing I couldn't carry anything bigger, but the reality is that I couldn't afford anything bigger. Will have to get an envelope today and post it home in case I damage it.

We seem to be having a little trouble with our pictures and therefore we have none to upload today but we will try again tomorrow.

We arrived in Rome yesterday afternoon and set of for the Vatican immediately. We have had the most amazing time there. The art work and the artifacts are just breathtakingly beautiful. Everybody should visit the Vatican musuem just to experience the wonderful pieces of artwork especially the Stanze di Raffaello and of course the Sistine Chapel.

We are going to St Peters today and lots of other places that we will tell you about tomorrow hopefully with pictures.

Sheila and Jean
P.S. Our feet want to come home now!!!

Dubrovnik Day 2

Hi everyone

Just a sample of the things that we got up to yesterday.

First stop was croissants and coffee al fresco in the square beside the market which is on every day. There we got chatting to a couple of American girls who had just flown in from Rome.

From here we went to St Ignatius of Loyola Church which was built in 1699 and completed in 1725. The fresco on the ceiling of the dome represents the glory of St Ignatius and is a wonderful sight. Near the entrance on the right is the Grotto of Lourdes and is one of the oldest grottoes built in Europe (1885). Its present design is by a Croatian artist called Lojzika Ulman and was built in 1966.

After this we visited the Natural History Museum which has another photographic exhibition by various artists of flora and fauna with some amazing images of birds in flight and Crickets killing wasps. The detail was fantastic. There was also an exhibition by a photographer called Mrtvo Zvono (yes I spelled it correctly) who has taken images from inside some of Croatia's caves.
If you are reading this Patrick, can you tell us what a Sivi puh is (glis glis) because it is the funniest looking little beastie. There were fabulous images of bats and you have to wonder how he managed to capture them with a camera.

We also visited the Pharmaceutical Museum which has many artifacts including the tiniest scales ever and quite a lot of religious artifacts that have been saved from the great earthquake in the 17th century. It also have lovely cloisters and a garden that has grapefruit trees with huge fruit just waiting to fall.

There was also another photographic exhibition here (they obviously like their photographers) by a guy called Zoran Marinovic. He has produced a series of images of the Congo children called Congo Hope in the heart of darkness. It is about the Congo children helped by Friar Ilja Barisic who has worked there for the last 37 years and all he asks for his pay is the occasional smile from a child. While working there he has been stabbed 17 times.

We spent the afternoon at the beach which is really just a pile of rocks that you jump of into the sea, very invigorating. However, a cool beer soon settles you back into your basking in the sun again. We have been told that if you want a sandy beach you have to take a boat trip but the rocks are so much more fun and perfectly safe.

Last night we took the cable car to the top of the mountain to see Dubrovnik from above. We believe that the cable car only opened up again on the 10th July as the previous one was destroyed by the war. The view from above is breath taking and what made it even better is that the sun was setting over the island and it was the most spectacular sight we have seen in a long while. We were up the mountain until about 9.30 catching the last cable car back down to the town, it was so worth the money and I would recommend everyone who comes to Dubrovnik to take a trip.

Hopefully we will be able to update the blog tomorrow from Rome but for now we have some urgent sight seeing and sunbathing to do, not to mention drinking nice cool beers.

Speak soon

Jean and Sheila

Dubrovnik

Hi to all

We have arrived safely in Dubrovnik and are staying at the most delightful house in the old town with a the friendliest of family.  Yesterday afternoon we went exploring and very quickly found a little bar by the seashore for our first beers, just to refresh the palette you know. 

We have had a good look around the town and identified all the places that we would like to visit and the cameras are just burning up with overuse.  Hopefully tomorrow we will be able to post you some photos (you will all want to jump on an aeroplane it is so beautiful).  We are going to some of the museums this morning and the beach this afternoon but only so that we can tip ourselves into the water to cool down.  I believe the water temperature is 28° so maybe not that good at cooling down, but I am sure we will come away feeling refreshed before we head out this evening to find a fish restaurant for our supper. 

There is a market daily from about 6am until 10am selling fresh fruit, vegetables, nuts and oils etc.  We have purchased our lunch: two huge tomatoes, two fresh peaches and a bunch of grapes.   Now we are off to find the bakery for our croissants and coffee.

More news tomorrow with photos.  Love to you all.

Sheila and Jean

 

Sheila Hogg

Sheila Hogg Photography
www.sheilahogg.co.uk
email: contact@sheilahogg.co.uk
Tel: 07525028805