Lyon, we are here

Hello again, two days in a row, you are being spoilt.

We have arrived safely in Lyon and collected at the station by Ian and Margaret and taken to their home where we were given a fantastic bar-b-que and ate and drank well into the night (5am to be precise). We can honestly say that we had the most enjoyable evening of the whole trip, their hospitality has been fabulous and we really hope that we zill be able to return the favour some day soon. There is something so comforting about being with people you know especially when you have spent the last three weeks living amongst complete strangers.

We said that we would post some photos and that is really our intention today. I don't know how many we can upload but we will try and see what happens.

Here is a photo of a sculpture called Nomad because it has no face just an empty space. It sits on the walls of the old town in Antibes, is made up of letters of the alphabet and is very impressive. If you are reading this Patrick, it's similar to the sculpture outside the MOMA at Middlesburgh. I don't know if you can make it out but there are people inside it so you get an idea of the size of it.

This is a photo of the Cathedral at Monte Carlo. We are sure that it is not squint but every photo that we tried to take of it came out the same way so now we are not so sure. Could it be doing an impression of the leaning tower?

Here we are outside the Hotel Paris in Monte Carlo which is beside the Casino Royale. We lingered about for a while in the hope that we might see someone famous but alas not but we did see some very nice cars.

This is back in Rome when we climbed the dome at St Peters to get the view from the top (over 300 stairs) on one of the sunnier days.

After a beautiful sunny day in Grasse, just as we head back for the train, another thunderstorm. Fortunately we managed to get to shelter just in ti,me. We are becoming professional rain dodgers.

We will see you all back home on Wednesday.

Love Jean and Sheila

Farewell to Antibes - hello Lyon

Hi Everyone

We were just walking through Antibes looking for a nice bottle of wine to take to Ian`s when we noticed this cybercafe so we have taken the opportunity to update you a little before we depart on the train. Unfortunately the keyboard is all mixed up and it takes a bit of finding some of our more popular keys and don`t ask me where the proper apostrophe is so forgive me for the bad punctuation.

We dumped our wee tent in the bin today because all the connecting strings had rotted away while it was folded away damp and we have been precariously living in the hope that it would stay up for the duration of our visit to Antibes and it has served us well. We would never have been able to errect it again so rather than carry dead weight, it is in the bin.

We have had such a great time in Antibes and a lot of this has to do with the owners of the campsite where we stayed. Jeanne and Mark were the friendliest of people who were always ready to help, made us laugh a lot and gave us the odd french lesson, so, a big thank you to them.

Yesterday we went to Grasse and managed to spend eight hours there going from one museum to another and from one view point to another. Rather than take the bus from the station to the old town centre, we decided to walk up the 200 steps to get there (we must have been having withdrawal symptoms) and it was quite a hike but well worth it because the view was magnificent and again we have the photos to bore you with when we get home. You won't believe it but just as we were waiting for the train home from Grasse the heavens opened again and we encountered our third thunderstorm of our trip and we thought it would be sunny all the way.

We are hoping that Ian will be able to let us use his laptop so that we can post some of our photos but in the meantime we need to head back to the train station and catch our train to Lyon.

We miss you all but will soon be home. Wednesday will be here before we know it.

Love
Jean and Sheila

Bet Monaco is brilliant

Oh dear there is just too much to tell you in the short space of time that we have, and using a foreign keyboard.

Since we last spoke to you we have done some pretty amazing things. We never did get to Slovenia but we did make it to Verona. What a wonderful place it was, and also a pretty good train journey as the scenery was fantastic. Our accomodation in the city was really close to the centre and everything was within walking distance. Our first stop was Juliettes balcony and that was one of our highlights. Although we know she is not real, the number of people who were there, you would think that she was. The visitors write love pledges on the wall and Jean pledged her love to Tommy while we were there. So sweet. In the evening we stood outside the open air arena and listened to the opera which was so moving we were transfixed for at least an hour, and were moved to tears by the whole thing.

Would love to tell you more but we are really time short, and we would love to mention Florence. All you that have visited it do not need to be told how beautiful it is, but for those who have never been, start saving now and make a plege to go, you will not be disappointed. Again our accommodation was very central and we were able to cover all of the sites on foot. We started with the Musee Acadamia to see Michalangelos David, which was a stunning sight and really takes your breath away. We were told that there are four immitation Davids around Florence and we did see a couple of others but did not manage to find them all. After that we walked around the city to the old entrance and then down to catch a number 12 bus to Piazza de Michalangelo to watch the sunset over Florence. The crowd that had gathered was huge and as the sun set everyone started to clap. Cameras were flashing all over the place and we have taken our fair share to bore you with when we get home.

To bring you up to date, we are sitting in an internet cafe in Monaco after having arrived in the Cote d Azur on Sunday night, hoping to stay at Logies campsite, but he would not let us in as we rrived too late so we are staying at a much friendlier site just along the road. The owners are great fun and are really looking after us.

We went to the Picasso museum yesterday and have spent an exhausting day on the beach today, you have no idea how tiring it is lying sleeping in the sun. Tomorrow we are going to Grasse the sweetest smelling town in France.

Sorry there are no pics but we will try to upload some for you on Friday of the places we have been.

Love from
Jean and Sheila

Two wet in Trieste!

Having made our way to the very beautiful city of Trieste and finding a campsite at the top of a very high hill (maybe even qualifies as a mini mountain), we managed to get set up and settled in within ten minutes. The campsite is set in what we would call a National Trust Park and is full of creatures that we have never seen before. they have bugs, probably some kind of Locust that ar 5cm long, we have seen grass hoppers, heard Wood Peckers and many other bird songs that we are unable to identify, we should have brough Patrick with us. It really is a place of outstanding beauty and very unspoilt. We were picking plums from a tree last night that were the sweetest we had ever tasted. Later that evening we had a lovely stroll along the road to the next village called Opicina and stayed long enough to get a bit tipsy in a very lively pub. It was absolutely full of people and the village could not have been as big as East Ord. We walked back and fell into bed and off to sleep immediately after making our plans to get the bus to Slovenia in the morning because it is just 4 kilometres along the road and then the rest of the day exploring Trieste, day sorted.

About 8.00am we woke up and thought we heard a spot of rain on the roof of the tent. Oh boy were we in for a shock. The rain turned into a full blown thunder and lightning storm that lasted 6 hours It crashed, banged and flashed all around us. Jean was very brave and Sheila was under the covers with her iPod turned up full blast so that she couldn't hear it.

As it eased off we ventured out for a cup of coffee and a croissant and as it seemed to be drying up a bit we headed off into Trieste in the hope that we could get a little bit of sight seeing done. We managed about 2hours before the heavens opened again and we thought we were going to have another Naples soaking. This time though we found a doorway to shelter in and then found this internet cafe and thought we would just update you on our comings and goings. Here is a picture of Trieste at its driest today, you can see the storm clouds brewing.

This Piazza del'Unita d'Italia which is one of the biggest and most spectacular squares opening onto the sea. we also came across James Joyce who was very prominent at the railway station but there is also a bronze statue of him by the Grand Canal which is really a puddle in comparison with the Grand Canal in Venice. Can anyone tell us what his connection is with Trieste. We have also attached a photo of the Roman Theatre which dates back to 1AD and the photograph doesn't really do it justice. As well as some amazing architecture there are some fabulous shops and if you are reading this Anne, you definitely need to accompany Simon on one of his trips here and make sure he brings his credit card. It is very affluent and more chic than any of the cities we have visited so far. There seems to be quite a Jewish influence and they are so posh that there are no knock off bags and belts here, they probably just wouldn't want fakes.

The thunder seems to be easing off although the rain continues to come down in sheets. We have checked the weather forecast and apparently the worst is to come through the night so when you wake up in the morning, think of us packing our very wet tent away in the pouring rain to catch an early morning train to Verona, let's hope the sun is shining and we can get dried off on the train.

We are going to head off now up our little mountain. Thank goodness we don't actually have to climb the dam thing, we have a lovely tram to do that for us and even in weather like this the views are to die for. The tram was built in 1902 and I am sure the people at the top of the hill were very grateful for it, I know we are.

We will try to tell you about Verona and Juliet's balcony tomorrow or Saturday.

Love to read some comments from you guys, especially if anyone knows about James Joyce.

Loads of love

Jean & Sheila

Napoli socks or die

We have managed to find an internet cafe so are just going for it while we can as we want to tell you how dedicated two women can be to finding Napoli football socks.

We had a few hours to spend before catching our flight to Venice and so decided that we would once again try to find some Napoli football socks for Kieran. Well that turned out to be a bit of a challenge. No where, and I mean no where, can you buy Napoli football socks in Naples in fact we have been looking today in Venice and you can't get them here either. Anyway, we got off the bus at the station, dumped our bags and started the quest. Honestly, you would think we were looking for the Holy Grail, never has anything been so hard to find. We were in the dodgy end of town anyway and trying to cross roads was like taking your life in your hands literally on one occasion as a biker tried to mow down Sheila, who managed to swerve out of his way because he didn't seem to know what to do. All this took place on a zebra crossing and never ones to miss an opportunity, a cafe owner immediately said we should go into his cafe and buy ourselves a coffee to get over the shock. We were both fine and continued our quest with bags clutched tightly to our chests because that's what everyone has told us to do while in Naples.

Sorry Kieran, the quest was unfulfilled but we did manage to get you something but we will keep it a surprise.

We got to the airport only to find that the flight was delayed and so we did a little window shopping and of course managed to buy a couple of bits at the duty free. Safely stuffing our purses back into our bags off we went to check in. On the aeroplane Sheila got out her glasses and ipod and enjoyed watching a movie during the 40 minute flight.

Finding the bus to the campsite was so easy, finding the campsite was a doddle, and before you knew it, the tent was up (less than 5 minutes) and off we went for some food because by this time it was about 10.30pm and we were starving. We ordered a pizza and Sheila went into her bag for her purse and guess what, it was gone. We had spent all that time in Naples protecting our pennies only to get to Venice and be caught out by a pick pocket. Mother, please don't worry, it's all sorted, card stopped and report made to police. That was the end of our very eventful day and we both went off to bed feeling that we had made a bad choice coming to Venice. The campsite was too far our and the buses started to late for us to make our train on Wednesday morning so that night we thought we would just pack up the next day and head into town to see if we could sort something else out. We literally just turned the corner from the train station when Jean noticed a sign for a friendly cheap hotel so we thought why not let's give it a shot. We have been delighted by our cheap hotel. It's clean, 2 minutes from the station and is indeed cheap so we are very happy.

We have also decided not to go to Slovenia tomorrow and instead we will find a campsite in Trieste and stay there for a couple of days instead as we feel we could just do with charging our batteries.

Today we have walked ten miles around Venice and we definitely did not make a mistake coming here as it has been one of the most beautiful cities we have ever been to. We think the rest of the world has come with us though as you just can't move for pesky tourists. Here is a couple of photos to make you all feel jealous.

As you can see mum, we are once again having a great time and loving every minute.

We have to go now as we have to be up at 6am to catch our train. We don't know when we can blog again but we will as soon as we can.

Love to all.

Jean and Sheila

Naples

Hello again,

We wanted to go into Naples to see the Capodimonte Museum and then onto Pompei. We had our journey planned down to the last bus and thought that we would be able to fit both in with time to return to the camp site for a swim in the volcanically heated swimming pool. Oh how things can go wrong. It started of so well because we managed to catch the right but, unfortunately we were not so sure about where to get off so once we got to the port we thought we had gone far enough and got off to look for the next bus up to the Museum. Well, to find the bus we had to pass through a market which held us up a little as Sheila decided that there were a few nice bits and pieces that took her fancy and she ended up buying two dresses and one top for €3 (vintage you know). Off we went again to get our bus and of course we managed to get on the right bus but didn't quite know where to get off. Everyone wanted to help us: it's 9 stops said one old man, you should get off at the next stop said a young girl, I'll tell you when to get off said the bus driver, he was the one we listened to and for a good job because it we had taken the advice of any of the others we would still be walking up the hill now. Well, we know how the best laid plans go wrong, instead of a couple of hours in the museum we managed about five hours and I have to say, if it is possible, we're all Caravagio'd out. Again we have been blown away by art. This time it was the turn of Caravagio with a smattering of Raffaello and El Grecco amongst others but also the ceramics and the furniture were gorgeous.

We left the museum satiated of art and headed back down to the city centre, having realised that we would be unable to make Pompei before the museum closed. The buses are famous for being a little unreliable and after waiting over an hour for our bus back we thought it might be quicker to try the bus station in the hope of having more choice. We got about 200 metres along the road when the biggest thunder and lightning storm started and the heavens not only opened but actually gave way to a torrent of rain that neither Jean or I have ever seen. There we were in a park standing with a bit of cardboard over our heads watching everyone else scatter for the shelter they knew, getting soaked to the skin. The water was running down the street like a river and dripping of the end of our noses like a waterfall. We were both great candidates for the next Mrs wet T shirt competition and starting to feel just a little cold and soggy.

As we were more wet that we could ever be again, we decided to walk to the nearest bus stop, doorway, shelter, anything that might give us some shelter from the storm. We stumbled across a cafe with a canopy and asked if we could sit outside and shelter, the owner invited us in but we were dripping wet and just couldn't. The next thing we knew, they had brought us two coffees with smiley faces on them and two lovely little hot brioche buns. We were so grateful for something to keep us warm and the smiley faces really cheered us up. After the rain had stopped the owner offered us the use of his bathroom to get changed into (remember the two "vintage" dresses). Once we had dried ourselves down with paper towels and got changed we walked out of the toilets and you would think a couple of film stars had just walked into their cafe. They were cheering and smiling and giving us air kisses, it was fabulous and certainly cheered us up. Please don't let anyone tell you not to go to Naples, it has the friendliest most helpful people we have ever come across.

We had read in our guide book that the bus service was a bit unreliable and we found that to be the case. Remember we had already waited ages for our 152 and it never came. Well we crossed the road and waited at another bus stop forever... However, once again somebody came to our aid. Another lady who was also waiting for the bus told us how to get to the metro from the bus and we finally managed to start our 1K walk up the hill. Just outside the campsite we noticed a flame grilled chicken bar and thought that the very least we deserved was a proper meal so we bought the most magnificent portion of chicken and roast pototoes with rosemary. KFC eat your heart out, it was better than finger licking good.

Napoli we love you

Hello everyone

We just want you to know that we have had a delighful train journey from Rome to Naples. I think what was most pleasing was the sight of so many little olive groves and orchards and although I am sure that Italy is full of huge commercial farms as is everywhere, on our train journey their was lots of husband and wife teams working their own little small holding, weeding in between the melons and picking the fruit for the market.

The train was very busy with Romans travelling to the Amalfi coast for their holiday and the only reason that most of them were heading to Naples was so that they could catch the ferry to the islands especially Capri.

We managed to find the campsite okay, it is only 5km from Naples and a straight ride on the metro although the last km we had to walk up a hill in 32 degrees which was a bit of challenge but after all the steps we climbed in Rome we were well up for it. This is our home for the next few days.

The campsite is fantastic, we are right beside a volcanic crater which we worked around the first day and we were fasinated by the steam coming from various holes in the ground. The steam comes out at 160 degrees so you have to be careful were you stand and it also releases clouds of sulphur and so we came home covered in ash and stinking of rotten eggs. The mossies loved it and instantly attacked us leaving us looking like a bad case of giant measles. however other areas of our skin feel lovely and smooth and silky, it's just a shame that there is nobody here to appreciate it. After our trip around the crater which is right beside the campsite, we needed a shower and then went straight to the bar for well derserved beer before buying our tea.

Here is a picture of the view from the end of the road, we are overlooking the islands and it is one of the most beautiful views we have ever seen.

Last night we invented a great tea, we had bacon with courgettes accompanied by noodles cooked in chicken and leek cup-a-soup, with a few fresh plum tomatoes thrown in and a couple of huge crusy rolls to mop up the sauce. It was absolutely delicious. Just to add a bit of culture to our food for the day, when we got to the bar, we decided to have a bowl of mixed olives to accompany our wine, bellismo......

Farewell to Rome - Hello Naples

Hi everyone,


This is just a quickie today as we are up with the larks to catch the train to Naples ("hurrah, no walking today") said the feet.





Yesterday we finally made it to St Peters and climbed the 320 stairs to the top of the dome which was not as bad as I remembered although we both had a wee case of jelly legs once we got there, however, it only took a few minutes to catch our breath and then it was completely taken away again by the views of the city. After the Vittoro Emanuele the day before you would think that we would have had enough of viewing the city rooftops but this was every bit as wonderful. The dome is over at the other side of the city and from the top you can get wonderful views of the Pope's garden, St Peters Square and the surrounding hills. Again our cameras were smoking as we clicked away and still we can't download photos for you to see. I think the problem here is not with us but with the ancient computer that is available. We are not complaining though as access if free and the photos are worth waiting for. After a short spell sunbathing on the Pope's roof, we walked down the 520 steps which didn't seem to take as long as going up 320.



Once we got back down to earth we made our way into St Peters and were completely blown away. I had visited this last year but this was the first time that Jean had seen it and she could hardly speak, she was so overcome with the wonder of it all. We both managed to get some lovely photographs of the alter and St Peters tomb. We were so engrossed that before we new it we had spend about 5 hours wondering around.



A light lunch and a quick rest (feet demanded it, said they wouldn't walk another step without tomato sandwiches and five minutes toe wiggling) we set off again to see some churches but first we wanted to make sure that we knew where to catch the bus to the train station this morning and by the time we had checked this out, we missed the churches, so instead we had a nice little meander round the city. We stopped for a slice of pizza which was the best pizza we had ever tasted and we were ready for it after our energetic day, although we have been informed that actually Naples is the birth place of the pizza and we will get the best there - we shall let you know our verdict. Further along the road we were lured into a patisserie by these two little pieces of tart which really were robbers in disguise as they cost us €7 but they were so delicious, little slices of pistachio flavoured custard tarts and the pastry just melted in the mouth.



Anyway, as I said we are up early as we are heading to Naples this morning for the start of a week of camping so we don't know when we will be able to update again but hopefully we will find an internet cafe somewhere along the line.



Much love to everyone.



Jean and Sheila

All roads lead to Rome - and we walked them!

He everyone, our second day in Rome has been great. We started the day off by planning our route so that we didn't waste time once we were out. With feet newly washed and lovingly lotioned (they have been crying abuse at us), we set off for a number 271 bus to Il Vittoriano, a huge white marble monument built in honour of King Vittorio Emanuele 11, the first king of Italy. Apparently it had lain in ruins for a number of years (surprise, surprise) when at the beginning of the 20th century the Italians restored it to its former glory. It is the burial ground of the unknown soldier and a sort of museum for war and military memoribilia including several artifacts belonging to General Garibaldi. While we were there we also went up in the panoramic lift so that we could enjoy the 360 degree view of the city which is utterly wonderful. From the top you have very clear views of the Colosseum and Palatine which we believe was the Mayfair of Ancient Rome where the Roman celebrities hung out. Just a bit to our right was the Roman Forum where once stood the marble law courts of ancient Rome. Legend has it that Romulus' tomb is in there and that the Vestel Virgins tended the sacred flame of Temple di Vesta. When we face the other way we have the most amazing view of the roof tops of Rome including the domes of all the city churches. The cameras were smoking by the time we had finished up there and we do hope that we can get some pictures posted here before long (trust me, they are worth waiting for). I know a few of you have been to Rome but for anyone still to come, this really is the best place to see it all. We had to stop at the cafe up there and have a quick beer just because we needed to have a seat for a few minutes and we were lured in by the prospect of sitting beside one of those fans that sprays you with a fine mist of water as well as blowing a nice breeze on your face. The beer was €5 a glass so we felt justified in savouring it for a good half an hour before setting of on our next stop.



On our way to St Peters, we planned to visit the Pantheon which was built by Hadrian aroun about AD 120, pretty much about the same age as Hadrian's wall but in much better condition. First of all even though they have the odd earthquake and a smattering of wars, the building looks like it could have been built just a few hundred years ago. This temple come church hosts mass and it is probably for this reason that it doesn't cost to visit. The original doors are still in place but then they are made of bronze and are quite spectacular. However, as you go through the door the site of the dome just takes your breath away. This 9m oculus allows enough light through to light up the whole place and it would seem that everyone, including me, wanted to get a photograph of that shaft of light hitting the detailed architecture. Hadrian was a very clever man because the floor of the Pantheon is concave so that when it rains the water runs to the edges and drain away. Apparently it is quite a vision when the rain falls through the dome especially if it is one of those sun showers.



Piaazza Navona was not on our hit list but we kind of fell into it on our way to St Peter's and we are pleased that we did. This is Rome's most iconic piazza with three fountains including the fountain of the four rivers (the Nile, Ganges, Danube and Plata). Once upon a time they used to flood the piazza so that the Romans could enjoy somewhere to swim or at least paddle during the long hot summers. The tourist obviously still like that idea as the main fountain was cooling a few holidaymakers down. We both decided that our feet deserved a wee treat so we had our own little paddle there.



By this time we realised that we had our own little fan club, we have become the tastiest thing in Rome since they drove the cattle of the streets. We have acquired quite a few bites and believe me in Rome the mossies know how to sink their teeth in. Despite our daily dousing with Jungle formula insect repellent our little friends are just going for it. Every morning, before we set out, we get out the spray and believe me we are not mean with it, if we don't die of chemical poisoning before this trip is over it will be a surprise, and still they help themselves to their pound of flesh. Just as well mum gave use some more chemicals that take the itch out of the bites.

Anyway, we thought we might go to the supermarket and buy our tea so that we could save money. By the time we bought our tea it was too late to go to St Peters so instead we went back to the hostel had our tea and headed out again to the Spanish Steps and the Trivi Fountain. The Spanish Steps were as busy as ever and it was so funny watching the rogue traders trying to sell their fake Prada bags (only €15, very tempting) and keep one step ahead of the police. We couldn't find that lovely Ice Cream shop on our way to the Trivi so managed to save a few calories and euros there. We got some fabulous shots of the fountain (you really are going to be so bored with our holiday snaps) even though it was crowded. We feel very privilaged to be able to see all these wonderful sites and everywhere we go we manage to have a natter to someone. Last night it was an Australian who had just flown in from Venice, a really lovely girl and we had a bit of a laugh watching these crazy guys picking up their bags in sheets and running down the other side of the steps to the police coming up them.

Our feet are now demanding to be put on the next flight home. We have covered 35 miles on our site seeing trips and that's not including walking to buses and hostels etc. Yesterday we covered 10 miles around Rome, most of which were steps, and guess what, we are just on our way out the door to climb to the top of St Peters dome which, I believe, is another 300 and odd steps all in one go, no turning back and no stopping for a rest. Will probably spend a good bit of time sunbathing on the Pope's roof before we head back down. Feet will probably go on stike after today.

Speak to you all soon, love you all

Jean and Sheila